Who is the fool who said me Turkey is a hot country !?! If I catch him, he will be hurt. Really hurt. There are some lost snow balls !
I had snow before Ankara, and I have again after Yozgat. I arrived under the sun in Sorgun, but the day after, I notice it snowed during the night : white coat on all the country ! And one hour after my start, the snow fall again. There is a lot of wind but I have got the good technique with my umbrella : I put it on my shoulder and the wind pin it against. I can walk with the hands in the pockets. Quiet. And there is snow and wind all the day. When I arrive in Akdağmadeni, there is 20 cm and -2 degrees on the signpost. But we are at the end of marsh !
Turkish people says they didn't see that for 10 years... I'm not surprised, I 'm suscribed to the phenomenon. I pass in Ardèche (mountains in France) and there is a lot of snow in April. I go in Corse ısland and I have snow in June month. I go in Austria for the end of May : snow again in the Tyrol. And each time the same local reaction : "we have never seen that since a long time !". Suscribed. I guess I offended a godess of the cold one day... Skadi, Ceridwen, I will offer you a crips packet if you leave me ! Or maybe it's the spring which run away from me : Persephone, Freyia, Cybel, and all the others, I promise, I will sacrifie for you a second packet of crisps if you come back ! I left Akdağmadeni with -3 degrees and will spend the day in the white mountains. Finally, if there is no wind, it's nice and beautifull. Like some ski holidays... But the road go down at the end of the day and the day after, it's the big sun arriving in Sivas.
Thursday, 2 April 2009
Monday, 30 March 2009
Ankara, and after...
I confirmed what I heard about Ankara : nothing to see, move out. So I move. I 've just stayed one day. The good thing is I have tested "Couchsurfing.com" and it work : it wasn't sure because I asked for a couch just the day for the next night. It's a bit short, I should asked before. But , surprise, I had 3 positive answers, and I spend my time in the flat of a French girl, Adelaide, who get used with the couchsurfing web. For my first experience, it was pretty good and I have been really well received. I left the city with very good mood, fresh and ready for a long way under the sun of the spring's sun (it was the 22nd of marsh !) : next step, Erzurum. It seems that a main part of the turkish economy is growing up between Istanbul and Ankara : I needed 3 days to go out the first one, and 2 days to come in the second one. But I just needed 3 hours to go out of Ankara... No more inustry, or urban area, just the country. And no more highway, just a national road not too much busy, so I can walk quietly.
Well, I walked like this until Yozgat, at about 200 km from there. My bag is light, and if the rain let me quiet, I can move on to 50 km steps without too much problems. Anyway, the landscape is sade, even under the sun : just large plains completely cultivated with sometimes some bald hills... and no one tree, nothing. I am surprised, they have cut everything with there industrial culture, there is nothing about kilometers around ! As far I can see from the road, on the last 300 km I did, no forest, no wood, no one grove, nothing ! Sometimes, just 2 or 3 trunks when there is a house... In those conditions, the wind is king. In the back, it can be nice, but on the face, it's a bit impeding. Maybe it could be possible to cross the country on a landyacht ?
So, every thing is OK, I would be in Sivas about th 1st of april...
Well, I walked like this until Yozgat, at about 200 km from there. My bag is light, and if the rain let me quiet, I can move on to 50 km steps without too much problems. Anyway, the landscape is sade, even under the sun : just large plains completely cultivated with sometimes some bald hills... and no one tree, nothing. I am surprised, they have cut everything with there industrial culture, there is nothing about kilometers around ! As far I can see from the road, on the last 300 km I did, no forest, no wood, no one grove, nothing ! Sometimes, just 2 or 3 trunks when there is a house... In those conditions, the wind is king. In the back, it can be nice, but on the face, it's a bit impeding. Maybe it could be possible to cross the country on a landyacht ?
So, every thing is OK, I would be in Sivas about th 1st of april...
Saturday, 21 March 2009
The first days
It's done, I am in Ankara.
Little "flash back" on the last 11 days... it's hard, each step was really different from the previous one ! Istanbul seems to be so far, I've got the sensation to start many weeks ago.
Let's start by the beginning : the first day. It was really nice, after said goodbye to my golden flatemates, I crossed the Bosphorus and spend the day folowing the shore. not a lot of traffic, but a lot of green, the sea, the sun... perfect. The evening, I left the shore to find a first accomodation (I was in Pendik).
From there, it's turning sour.
I advise the mosque and ask to sleep in. The second of the Imam (Hamid) is OK to help me, but the decision is from this last one. And everything I have is a sermon about th unicity of God and heresy of the christian trinity... failure. However, Hamid drive me in a little hotel and speak with the leader to make me a normal price. OK, I will try again tomorrow...
The day after, the conditions start to go bad : there will be rain or snow every days until Ankara. I thought I would need just one day to go out of the Istanbul's agglomeration : I needed 3 days to find some green. 3 days on th border of the national road D100, my umbrella in the hand, trying to escape the big sprays of muddy water the trucks chucked at me (I had 2 or 3 in the face), asking me when I will finally going out of this continuation of industrial and urban areas.
It's like this until Izmit. The next town is Adapazarı : I notice I can follow from there an other road to go to Ankara. There is more km, but it's not a matter : let's go.
Actually, it change. For better ! Firstly, there is no one. A vehicle every ten minutes. I am in the countryside, and if I lose some security (frequency of food shops, hostels), I win quiet, and decorum. Passing by a little town (Akyazı), a man call me and offer me to have a tea in the next Çaihane (thea shop). There, I try to explain my story. I do sensation and make the gathering. A man is particulary enthusiastic, speaking highly with big moves. He want to know everything but don't speak english. He calls his uy wife (or his cousine, I didn't really understood) who speaks french, and arrive to the question : where will you go to sleep this night ? I don't know, I would look for in the next village : kuzuluk. I learn there is a big hotel with a lot of stars, because there is a famous thermel spring and people come here for some cures. From ther, it's good for me : I spare you the details, but at the end, the guy and one of his friend will negociate for me and friendly price that they will offer me at the end ! I am for one night the property of a 3 rooms flate with jaccuzie... Everything I have to do is to give back the key tomorrow at 9 a.m. o'clock... Top. First action : a good warm bath !
The day after, I start under the sun, with radiant humor. I take a long time to do 20 km, but I am surprised to arrived at about 14H30 to my dayly destination ! Another surprise : my map is wrong. But I can't stop so early. I will stop in the first village after 17H30... But the road change suddenly : she go up in the mountains turning everytime and lengthening the distance, and the clouds go down. At first, the rain, after, the hail, and then, the snow, with the fog. And no one more vollage. Before I found one every 5 km ! The night falls... After 3 hours of walk, I start to be tired, but I can't stop. There is no shelter, it's cold, and I have to arrive somewhere. So, I gonna walk until 20H (about 25 km). It's the dark night since a long time, and I see nothing except the white line on the road (no moon) and pass the village of Çavrısdere without see it. I realize I passed it watching the hour : I am too far. I notice some buildings and lights : let's go.
I knock : the door is open. "Iyı Akşamlar !" "Salam Aleikum !" (be polite). A head appears. He makes me sign to come in. I seems to be not surprised to see me in his place with my head of scarecrow in this hour : I suppose he saw me on the road during the day. I use my little paper to explain who I am, what I do, what I am looking for (Thanks for Anlame, my turkish flatemate, who wrote me that), but he don't take care about that. He seems to live alone in a "ready built" barrack with a TV, a couch, a stove and a scale model. Are you hungry ? Yes. He disappears 5 minutes and come back with a good big dinner. Tea ? Thanks. Sleep ? Yeees ! He prepared me a bed with a electric radiator. He just advise me he will wake me up about 6H a.m. tomorow. No matter, it's good for me. And I sleep like a log.
The day after, it's snowing. I notice leaving the place it was like a military camp with barreres and flag, and the guy should be the guardian... from there the ecessity to go early before they come back.
And I do my second march of 45 km : if I walk, I am not cold, but I can't stop more than 5 minutes to have a break. I am out of order ariving in Mudurnu (run out of energy : I shouldn't do 45 km with nothing in the stomac). The next day, the snow fall with big flakes : it is funny, but I still can't stop. Sometime, I meet a village, but it's just some hardscrabble houses surrounding a mosque (new) with nothing to offer or to sell. fortunately, the road goes finally down and the snow stop when I arrive in the evening to Nallıhan. The day after, the landscape change all the 10 km : no more mountains or snow, but arid plain following cultivated plain, hills with strange colors, red, white, or yellow, a really strange area with green and red hils (welcome on Mars !)... a lac, some storks, I don't know really where I am, I take a lot of pictures until Çayıhan.
It was the best. The two last days, everything became sad before arriving in Ankara. But the cold is still there ! 3°C during the day, less in the night. And my feet protest against my big treks. A stop in Ankara is needed.
Little "flash back" on the last 11 days... it's hard, each step was really different from the previous one ! Istanbul seems to be so far, I've got the sensation to start many weeks ago.
Let's start by the beginning : the first day. It was really nice, after said goodbye to my golden flatemates, I crossed the Bosphorus and spend the day folowing the shore. not a lot of traffic, but a lot of green, the sea, the sun... perfect. The evening, I left the shore to find a first accomodation (I was in Pendik).
From there, it's turning sour.
I advise the mosque and ask to sleep in. The second of the Imam (Hamid) is OK to help me, but the decision is from this last one. And everything I have is a sermon about th unicity of God and heresy of the christian trinity... failure. However, Hamid drive me in a little hotel and speak with the leader to make me a normal price. OK, I will try again tomorrow...
The day after, the conditions start to go bad : there will be rain or snow every days until Ankara. I thought I would need just one day to go out of the Istanbul's agglomeration : I needed 3 days to find some green. 3 days on th border of the national road D100, my umbrella in the hand, trying to escape the big sprays of muddy water the trucks chucked at me (I had 2 or 3 in the face), asking me when I will finally going out of this continuation of industrial and urban areas.
It's like this until Izmit. The next town is Adapazarı : I notice I can follow from there an other road to go to Ankara. There is more km, but it's not a matter : let's go.
Actually, it change. For better ! Firstly, there is no one. A vehicle every ten minutes. I am in the countryside, and if I lose some security (frequency of food shops, hostels), I win quiet, and decorum. Passing by a little town (Akyazı), a man call me and offer me to have a tea in the next Çaihane (thea shop). There, I try to explain my story. I do sensation and make the gathering. A man is particulary enthusiastic, speaking highly with big moves. He want to know everything but don't speak english. He calls his uy wife (or his cousine, I didn't really understood) who speaks french, and arrive to the question : where will you go to sleep this night ? I don't know, I would look for in the next village : kuzuluk. I learn there is a big hotel with a lot of stars, because there is a famous thermel spring and people come here for some cures. From ther, it's good for me : I spare you the details, but at the end, the guy and one of his friend will negociate for me and friendly price that they will offer me at the end ! I am for one night the property of a 3 rooms flate with jaccuzie... Everything I have to do is to give back the key tomorrow at 9 a.m. o'clock... Top. First action : a good warm bath !
The day after, I start under the sun, with radiant humor. I take a long time to do 20 km, but I am surprised to arrived at about 14H30 to my dayly destination ! Another surprise : my map is wrong. But I can't stop so early. I will stop in the first village after 17H30... But the road change suddenly : she go up in the mountains turning everytime and lengthening the distance, and the clouds go down. At first, the rain, after, the hail, and then, the snow, with the fog. And no one more vollage. Before I found one every 5 km ! The night falls... After 3 hours of walk, I start to be tired, but I can't stop. There is no shelter, it's cold, and I have to arrive somewhere. So, I gonna walk until 20H (about 25 km). It's the dark night since a long time, and I see nothing except the white line on the road (no moon) and pass the village of Çavrısdere without see it. I realize I passed it watching the hour : I am too far. I notice some buildings and lights : let's go.
I knock : the door is open. "Iyı Akşamlar !" "Salam Aleikum !" (be polite). A head appears. He makes me sign to come in. I seems to be not surprised to see me in his place with my head of scarecrow in this hour : I suppose he saw me on the road during the day. I use my little paper to explain who I am, what I do, what I am looking for (Thanks for Anlame, my turkish flatemate, who wrote me that), but he don't take care about that. He seems to live alone in a "ready built" barrack with a TV, a couch, a stove and a scale model. Are you hungry ? Yes. He disappears 5 minutes and come back with a good big dinner. Tea ? Thanks. Sleep ? Yeees ! He prepared me a bed with a electric radiator. He just advise me he will wake me up about 6H a.m. tomorow. No matter, it's good for me. And I sleep like a log.
The day after, it's snowing. I notice leaving the place it was like a military camp with barreres and flag, and the guy should be the guardian... from there the ecessity to go early before they come back.
And I do my second march of 45 km : if I walk, I am not cold, but I can't stop more than 5 minutes to have a break. I am out of order ariving in Mudurnu (run out of energy : I shouldn't do 45 km with nothing in the stomac). The next day, the snow fall with big flakes : it is funny, but I still can't stop. Sometime, I meet a village, but it's just some hardscrabble houses surrounding a mosque (new) with nothing to offer or to sell. fortunately, the road goes finally down and the snow stop when I arrive in the evening to Nallıhan. The day after, the landscape change all the 10 km : no more mountains or snow, but arid plain following cultivated plain, hills with strange colors, red, white, or yellow, a really strange area with green and red hils (welcome on Mars !)... a lac, some storks, I don't know really where I am, I take a lot of pictures until Çayıhan.
It was the best. The two last days, everything became sad before arriving in Ankara. But the cold is still there ! 3°C during the day, less in the night. And my feet protest against my big treks. A stop in Ankara is needed.
Saturday, 7 March 2009
Chapter II - Istanbul/New Delhi
Hello everybody.
After a few months in hibernation, time is come to leave again."On the road again" as said the other.
I start next Monday (9th of Marsh)
The last 4 months passed quickly, finaly, between the Yohanna's teach, the consulate library (I have read maybe about 50 books since november), the flatemates... No regret, it was super, but I can't wait to leave, now.
There is nothing to see with my start from France, where I was under stress. Today, I'm just happy to take the road again, no fear : I know where I go, I'm ready. I think...
So It's OK.
I send in France some materials : my dying tent (-3kg),my sleeping bag (-1,5kg), and some kilos of little useless things. I bought 2 bags to carry the rest : the total weight is not 10 kg, even with a full bottle of water. Other advantage : I will walk straight ! I was enough to walk bend down because of the weight of my big bagpack. Now, it should be right.
So, the question everybody ask to me : "How will you do if you have got nothing ?"
As I said before my start in France, I want to use the local hospitality to pass over the middle east. In this part of the world, it's always a religious deal.
And the fact I am (really)lighter should let me cover a bigger distance in the same time than before, or the same distance in a shorter time, and so, I should have more time to find a place to sleep each night. Anyway, I have no choice and it's not bad : I always have problems to go towards people, it's the occasion to change, and to learn.
And the night will be cold, which should delete my ultimate hesitations (faltering ?). In true, I learned Anatolia plateau is very cold in winter, with a lot of snow... But I take some precautions : stating now, I would arrive arrive in the coldest area (Erzurum-Tabriz) at the end of April. I hope the weather will be better. At all events, starting later would be dangerous in Himalaya mountains, and I prefer to be cold instead of in October...
About administrative questions, everything is OK until Tehran : my Iranian Visa wait for me in Erzurum, I made my turkish stamp longer...quiet.
I should write my next message from Ankara, the capital.
Let's go !
After a few months in hibernation, time is come to leave again."On the road again" as said the other.
I start next Monday (9th of Marsh)
The last 4 months passed quickly, finaly, between the Yohanna's teach, the consulate library (I have read maybe about 50 books since november), the flatemates... No regret, it was super, but I can't wait to leave, now.
There is nothing to see with my start from France, where I was under stress. Today, I'm just happy to take the road again, no fear : I know where I go, I'm ready. I think...
So It's OK.
I send in France some materials : my dying tent (-3kg),my sleeping bag (-1,5kg), and some kilos of little useless things. I bought 2 bags to carry the rest : the total weight is not 10 kg, even with a full bottle of water. Other advantage : I will walk straight ! I was enough to walk bend down because of the weight of my big bagpack. Now, it should be right.
So, the question everybody ask to me : "How will you do if you have got nothing ?"
As I said before my start in France, I want to use the local hospitality to pass over the middle east. In this part of the world, it's always a religious deal.
And the fact I am (really)lighter should let me cover a bigger distance in the same time than before, or the same distance in a shorter time, and so, I should have more time to find a place to sleep each night. Anyway, I have no choice and it's not bad : I always have problems to go towards people, it's the occasion to change, and to learn.
And the night will be cold, which should delete my ultimate hesitations (faltering ?). In true, I learned Anatolia plateau is very cold in winter, with a lot of snow... But I take some precautions : stating now, I would arrive arrive in the coldest area (Erzurum-Tabriz) at the end of April. I hope the weather will be better. At all events, starting later would be dangerous in Himalaya mountains, and I prefer to be cold instead of in October...
About administrative questions, everything is OK until Tehran : my Iranian Visa wait for me in Erzurum, I made my turkish stamp longer...quiet.
I should write my next message from Ankara, the capital.
Let's go !
Monday, 16 February 2009
Merry christmas !!!
I wish you a merry christmas ! There, in Istanbul, Christmas go unnoticed, and there is just some little decorations in a few shops of the occidental area (Taksim). Everybody works like everyday. But Iwill not stay alone this evening : we organize a party in our flat with the french students community and some turkish french speakers and others nationalities. So, it should be nice.
Have a nice evening !
Have a nice evening !
Istanbul, not Constantinople....
Some news from everyday... not so routine, finaly !
First some pictures which was missing in my last messages :
This is my flatmates with, in order :
Rebecca, Erasmus slovakian student, maybe the most quiet in the group, and realy nice :
Rebecca live in the same room with Anlame, turkish, student too, which open mind and good mood make her someone very pleasant... if she stay more than 5 minutes on her chair without moving :
Johanna, french, erasmus student too, is studying geopolitic in the middle east. Enthousiastic, I think it's the younger in the flat :
And there is Zivile : photographer, vintage nickless maker to sell it on Internet, this girl is always in good mood, helpful, and her english is very funny : How are you, Zivile ? Yes ! - My name is Gauthier - Yes ! - Are you for or against Obama ? - Yes... very funny ! But It is her who lend me her computer where I write this message.
Thank you Zivile ! - Yes !
Then Younes : from Marrocco, loving France after a few years spend in Paris, this guy is a "live wire" from everytime ! Studying economy in Galatasaray (where is formed the Turkish elite), this is Mr atmosphere :
And me... but you know.
I forgot to present you my pupil, Yohanna : she is the daughter of a famous football player, Rigobert Song, Who play today in a turkish club, Trapzon.
At 6 years old, mademoiselle know what she wants, but she's got a good tempered, and everything is OK !
There is an avantage to live with students : I meet other students.
Thanks Younes, I met Sébastien (left) and Aurélien (right) :
The first one studies economy with Younes, the second is in philosophie. But above all. we have together a beard and long hair... ;-)
Younes, Sébastien, Aurélien, Johanna, me, and other passing people, this form a french group and don't help to speak english or turkish, but lets spend some super parties !!!
Now, what about my daily activities ?
Just one obligation : Yohanna's teach. Generaly about 5 p.m., I need more than one hour to go and an other to go back. It's theoccasion for me to train a little myself with half past an hour of walk and about 300 steps in the metro 2 by 2 on the feet toe, héhé !
But it's suffiscient for a long day. To start, I wake up late, like ) a.m. or more if the night was short. Then I spend the time between cleaning the flat, reading, and internet. For that, I have got the choice between take a PC from one of my flatmates, or gogo out in a internet shop on Istiklal.
What is Istiklal ? It's a street name, but a very imprtant street ! It's as popularas Champs Elysées in Paris, and have the same function. I heard between Friday and Sunday, there was about 3 million people passing there in normal time ! You don't trust me ? Have a look on this picture :
At the end of this street, you arrive on a bridge on the "Golden Horn", which separate the west side in two parts, north (ancient occidental parts reserved before to the italian people) and south (where is the sultan palace). On this bridge, there is all the day a large cohort of fishermen fiching some sardines :
Smoke is dangerous...
And thereis some more extras. For example, Younes suggested meto gowith him in Galatasaray university for a conference gived by the ancient prime minister and actual european deputy Michel Rocard !
Subject : Turkie in Europe. Really interesting, but the most funny is I made the photo coverage for Younes who was trying to have a dedication for his last book : so I visit all the university, catching everything... And after the meeting, Younes and me were ready for the next picture :
Maybe there will be other VIP before marsh, héhéhé...
I have been invited in a concert : electro music in oriental mix with electric cythare (not guitare) and belly dance...strange but fun !
So, everything allright
Iyi Gunler !!!
First some pictures which was missing in my last messages :
This is my flatmates with, in order :
Rebecca, Erasmus slovakian student, maybe the most quiet in the group, and realy nice :
Rebecca live in the same room with Anlame, turkish, student too, which open mind and good mood make her someone very pleasant... if she stay more than 5 minutes on her chair without moving :
Johanna, french, erasmus student too, is studying geopolitic in the middle east. Enthousiastic, I think it's the younger in the flat :
And there is Zivile : photographer, vintage nickless maker to sell it on Internet, this girl is always in good mood, helpful, and her english is very funny : How are you, Zivile ? Yes ! - My name is Gauthier - Yes ! - Are you for or against Obama ? - Yes... very funny ! But It is her who lend me her computer where I write this message.
Thank you Zivile ! - Yes !
Then Younes : from Marrocco, loving France after a few years spend in Paris, this guy is a "live wire" from everytime ! Studying economy in Galatasaray (where is formed the Turkish elite), this is Mr atmosphere :
And me... but you know.
I forgot to present you my pupil, Yohanna : she is the daughter of a famous football player, Rigobert Song, Who play today in a turkish club, Trapzon.
At 6 years old, mademoiselle know what she wants, but she's got a good tempered, and everything is OK !
There is an avantage to live with students : I meet other students.
Thanks Younes, I met Sébastien (left) and Aurélien (right) :
The first one studies economy with Younes, the second is in philosophie. But above all. we have together a beard and long hair... ;-)
Younes, Sébastien, Aurélien, Johanna, me, and other passing people, this form a french group and don't help to speak english or turkish, but lets spend some super parties !!!
Now, what about my daily activities ?
Just one obligation : Yohanna's teach. Generaly about 5 p.m., I need more than one hour to go and an other to go back. It's theoccasion for me to train a little myself with half past an hour of walk and about 300 steps in the metro 2 by 2 on the feet toe, héhé !
But it's suffiscient for a long day. To start, I wake up late, like ) a.m. or more if the night was short. Then I spend the time between cleaning the flat, reading, and internet. For that, I have got the choice between take a PC from one of my flatmates, or gogo out in a internet shop on Istiklal.
What is Istiklal ? It's a street name, but a very imprtant street ! It's as popularas Champs Elysées in Paris, and have the same function. I heard between Friday and Sunday, there was about 3 million people passing there in normal time ! You don't trust me ? Have a look on this picture :
At the end of this street, you arrive on a bridge on the "Golden Horn", which separate the west side in two parts, north (ancient occidental parts reserved before to the italian people) and south (where is the sultan palace). On this bridge, there is all the day a large cohort of fishermen fiching some sardines :
Smoke is dangerous...
And thereis some more extras. For example, Younes suggested meto gowith him in Galatasaray university for a conference gived by the ancient prime minister and actual european deputy Michel Rocard !
Subject : Turkie in Europe. Really interesting, but the most funny is I made the photo coverage for Younes who was trying to have a dedication for his last book : so I visit all the university, catching everything... And after the meeting, Younes and me were ready for the next picture :
Maybe there will be other VIP before marsh, héhéhé...
I have been invited in a concert : electro music in oriental mix with electric cythare (not guitare) and belly dance...strange but fun !
So, everything allright
Iyi Gunler !!!
They are !
There are others !!!
A lot of people said my I am crazy, and at the end, I was afraid : am I the only one ?
No. Passing by the library of the French Institute of Istanbul, I have learned a few time ago, some walkers passed here for a world turn ! This is their website : http://toutenmarchant.free.fr/
Of course, it's all an organization, with money, logistic, but it's nice to see there is people ready for that ! More surprizing : they started their travel like me in April, and not from far : from Grenoble !
Friends !
I have written them for they keep mea room in New Delhi when they will pass in. After all, we never know... ;-)
A lot of people said my I am crazy, and at the end, I was afraid : am I the only one ?
No. Passing by the library of the French Institute of Istanbul, I have learned a few time ago, some walkers passed here for a world turn ! This is their website : http://toutenmarchant.free.fr/
Of course, it's all an organization, with money, logistic, but it's nice to see there is people ready for that ! More surprizing : they started their travel like me in April, and not from far : from Grenoble !
Friends !
I have written them for they keep mea room in New Delhi when they will pass in. After all, we never know... ;-)
Taxi
I have taken a taxi...
Said like this, it's nothing, but... Those who have test it in Turkie, Egypt, Algeria or same countries can surely understand me...
How to explain ?
Do you know the movie "TAXİ" from Luc Besson ? So, Daniel and his with taxi is a little player after the turkish drivers : they are killers ! And I heard they are worse during ramadan because of warm and hungry!
Third speed, one hand on the wheel, the other on the klaxonand let's go !!! (Geronimo !!!) Zig-zags in the traffic jam, forcing the through, brutal turns to find littles streets where just one car can pass, I see the rear-view mirror missing narrowly the obstacles... Turn right, turn left, klaxon and imprecations, always faster to be the first engaged in the street to have the right, come back on the speed way, zig and zag on a vague area in a mix of car and walkers and it's alive (yes, yes !) I arrive at destination.
Phew !
(a little plea to the saint of the taxi customers)
It was the back way. My first driver was older and slower, but as dangerous as the young driver driving so badly ! And I know what I say : those who have seen me driving know I am an expert in furious drive !
Said like this, it's nothing, but... Those who have test it in Turkie, Egypt, Algeria or same countries can surely understand me...
How to explain ?
Do you know the movie "TAXİ" from Luc Besson ? So, Daniel and his with taxi is a little player after the turkish drivers : they are killers ! And I heard they are worse during ramadan because of warm and hungry!
Third speed, one hand on the wheel, the other on the klaxonand let's go !!! (Geronimo !!!) Zig-zags in the traffic jam, forcing the through, brutal turns to find littles streets where just one car can pass, I see the rear-view mirror missing narrowly the obstacles... Turn right, turn left, klaxon and imprecations, always faster to be the first engaged in the street to have the right, come back on the speed way, zig and zag on a vague area in a mix of car and walkers and it's alive (yes, yes !) I arrive at destination.
Phew !
(a little plea to the saint of the taxi customers)
It was the back way. My first driver was older and slower, but as dangerous as the young driver driving so badly ! And I know what I say : those who have seen me driving know I am an expert in furious drive !
And the life get organized...
I lived 10 days in a youth hostel closed to Sultanhamet, the real touristy area of the west side. During this time, I looked for a mean to win money and find a flat without loosing my shirt...
For the job, I have seen by surfing on the web I didn't have any work autorisation... Not planned, that ! But for one hand, to have it, I need to pay and wait for a long time, and for an other hand I learned a large part of strangers here work in official posts without any autorisations and any problems... Just remains the language barrier. So, I checked the french community, and french schools (there is a lot here!), and I have proclaimed myself "scholar assistant" to give some help to pupils in trubbles.
I went in a primary school called "Pierre Loti", just in the same time with a help request from a mother's pupil... So, now, I've got a very nice little pupil, Yohanna, and I make her repeat her lessons everyday !
Then, for the flat, I betted on collocation, and on a french forum, I found a very nice place not far of Taksim (for who know). We are 6 : one French girl, one Lituanian girl, one turkish girl, one slovakian girl, one boy from Marocco, and me ! That is 3 french speakers... It's the Yussuf fault, the owner : he speak better french than english and let his announcement on french websites, so...
They are student (Erasmus) except the Lituanian girl who his photographer (and me who is... nothing !). The atmosphere is very nice, all confort, nothing to say, super.
OK, let pass the next 4 months. So, don't be surprise if there is no new message during this time, because my environment will not change like before.
Ciaobye!
For the job, I have seen by surfing on the web I didn't have any work autorisation... Not planned, that ! But for one hand, to have it, I need to pay and wait for a long time, and for an other hand I learned a large part of strangers here work in official posts without any autorisations and any problems... Just remains the language barrier. So, I checked the french community, and french schools (there is a lot here!), and I have proclaimed myself "scholar assistant" to give some help to pupils in trubbles.
I went in a primary school called "Pierre Loti", just in the same time with a help request from a mother's pupil... So, now, I've got a very nice little pupil, Yohanna, and I make her repeat her lessons everyday !
Then, for the flat, I betted on collocation, and on a french forum, I found a very nice place not far of Taksim (for who know). We are 6 : one French girl, one Lituanian girl, one turkish girl, one slovakian girl, one boy from Marocco, and me ! That is 3 french speakers... It's the Yussuf fault, the owner : he speak better french than english and let his announcement on french websites, so...
They are student (Erasmus) except the Lituanian girl who his photographer (and me who is... nothing !). The atmosphere is very nice, all confort, nothing to say, super.
OK, let pass the next 4 months. So, don't be surprise if there is no new message during this time, because my environment will not change like before.
Ciaobye!
Istanbul : discovery
I've had some turistic activities since 3 days. I didn't go far, just the main part of the west side. However, it's enough to fall under the charm, and in two days, I would take more or less 300 pictures... It's an admirable city, offering majestic overall views (Hayasofia, Blue Mosque, Sultan's palace) and little wonders (colored markets, old quarters and mosques, popular snapshots, lighting of the gold in th Grand Bazar...), the Bosphore views with all the boats in the sunshine, etc... It's a city you can hear : the muezzines with their loudspeakers war at the plea hour, the countless little merchants screaming their goods, trying to proove you they have something you need (even if you don't know that), the concert of klaxons in a "living" ciculation, the golden market, and of course the sounds of a southern language...
Istanbul is eatable too : Dürüm or Kebab for cheap, or exotic meats for richers, there is everything everywhere, and the most little hungry can be satisfacted all 20 m in all food shops and free pedlars. I think one day, people there knew the hungry, and never forgotten it. And it's always time for a tea ("Çai")... I don't grow tired about that : me who never drunk it before! I must confess that to spend a few hours on a high colors wall seat with a good book and 2 or 3 çai, with in the hears a sweet oriental music... I feel like a pasha.
But there are some pictures will speak better than me :
Istanbul is eatable too : Dürüm or Kebab for cheap, or exotic meats for richers, there is everything everywhere, and the most little hungry can be satisfacted all 20 m in all food shops and free pedlars. I think one day, people there knew the hungry, and never forgotten it. And it's always time for a tea ("Çai")... I don't grow tired about that : me who never drunk it before! I must confess that to spend a few hours on a high colors wall seat with a good book and 2 or 3 çai, with in the hears a sweet oriental music... I feel like a pasha.
But there are some pictures will speak better than me :
I've had some days to put down my bag and have a rest...
So, what about those 6 last months ?
From here, it was not so hard... bad remembers became good after a while, and finaly, the real difficulty was the weather : big warmth wear down the physic, the rain break the moral, the cold during the night... I didn't thought I would be aware that like this.
Apart from that, I realize it all happen very well : I didn't be ill, the language barrier was not a problem, I met some people very welcoming... I have seen how a smile let go far. I verified it everyday : I walk with my feet, but I go with my head. Moral, always.
Until now, I had never problems to sleep where I wanted, or to find some food regularly. It's a help. I haven't lost a lot of weight (75 kg at the start, 70 in Austria, maybe the same today), health is good...
So, everything is OK.
Wht did I learn during this time ?
I visited very different contries, with a real contrast at all levels (Switzerland and Albania are a good example) : population mentality, their hope, their vision of the world...
I have seen wonderful places : Moutains of Switzerland, Viena, Dalmatia coast, antic Greece...
Many people was surprised by my speed : I walk fastly. 40 km minimum each day (8 hours of walk), but in fact, I think it is not so impressive : on one hand, if the day is suffisciently longer, , I can do 50, 55, or 60 km like I did 2 times, and I am able to walk 5 or 6 hours (25-30 km) with no stop. and I am like a clocker now : 1 hour = 5km, morning and evening. It is not very fast, but I have the time to improve myself.
My bag too has never stop to get lighter : from 25 kg, he quickly fall at 22 and 20kg. In Greece, I reduce him, and now, he would be about 15kg, more or less... I think about removing some other items and buy a littler bag. Until where could I go ?
I am in Istanbul since a week, today. Return to the city life : I let you imagine the contrast !To look for a job, a flat, to walk in the streets, to take the metro... The attetion is always seeked by lights, calls, noise, always the noise, and the people, everywhere...
I have seen for myself a strange phenomenon : I never felt bored even if I was always alone during the last 6 months, but there, in the middle of all this people, I feel alone... not for a long time, of course (it is not in my nature), but as I couldn't stay quiet alone, in my head, I met the loneliness in a 12 million people cıty... strange.
But it will not be longer : if I can find a job and a flat, I will be in the situation I left in March : metro-job-sleep.
So, what about those 6 last months ?
From here, it was not so hard... bad remembers became good after a while, and finaly, the real difficulty was the weather : big warmth wear down the physic, the rain break the moral, the cold during the night... I didn't thought I would be aware that like this.
Apart from that, I realize it all happen very well : I didn't be ill, the language barrier was not a problem, I met some people very welcoming... I have seen how a smile let go far. I verified it everyday : I walk with my feet, but I go with my head. Moral, always.
Until now, I had never problems to sleep where I wanted, or to find some food regularly. It's a help. I haven't lost a lot of weight (75 kg at the start, 70 in Austria, maybe the same today), health is good...
So, everything is OK.
Wht did I learn during this time ?
I visited very different contries, with a real contrast at all levels (Switzerland and Albania are a good example) : population mentality, their hope, their vision of the world...
I have seen wonderful places : Moutains of Switzerland, Viena, Dalmatia coast, antic Greece...
Many people was surprised by my speed : I walk fastly. 40 km minimum each day (8 hours of walk), but in fact, I think it is not so impressive : on one hand, if the day is suffisciently longer, , I can do 50, 55, or 60 km like I did 2 times, and I am able to walk 5 or 6 hours (25-30 km) with no stop. and I am like a clocker now : 1 hour = 5km, morning and evening. It is not very fast, but I have the time to improve myself.
My bag too has never stop to get lighter : from 25 kg, he quickly fall at 22 and 20kg. In Greece, I reduce him, and now, he would be about 15kg, more or less... I think about removing some other items and buy a littler bag. Until where could I go ?
I am in Istanbul since a week, today. Return to the city life : I let you imagine the contrast !To look for a job, a flat, to walk in the streets, to take the metro... The attetion is always seeked by lights, calls, noise, always the noise, and the people, everywhere...
I have seen for myself a strange phenomenon : I never felt bored even if I was always alone during the last 6 months, but there, in the middle of all this people, I feel alone... not for a long time, of course (it is not in my nature), but as I couldn't stay quiet alone, in my head, I met the loneliness in a 12 million people cıty... strange.
But it will not be longer : if I can find a job and a flat, I will be in the situation I left in March : metro-job-sleep.
End of the chapter I - Borée/Istanbul
I'm arrived in Istanbul. After 6 months and two week of walk, and about 6000 or 6500 km, crossing 7 countries, I made the easyer part of my travel (I think).
I'm arrived the Sunday, 26th of October, but it's just now, the 29th, I feel "arrived". After my entry in Istanbul, I runned to find a cheap hostel, find my marks, buy a coat and shoes, etc... Today I can ave a rest.
I finish the viit o th main turistic places I have started yesterday (Hayasophia, Blue Mosquee, Topkapı palace, Grand bazar ...) and will come back on the blog later to make a real check.
Allaha ısmarldık !
Autumn
It's done, we are in autumn. I have discovered he didn't have any visa, and he was waiting for me at the border.
It's everyday colder than the day before, wind is permanent, trees are loosing their leaf, clouds mask the sun more and more... it's time to arrive, and quickly ! I'v got nothing for this kind of weather, and once I wear my all my clothes, I just can walk waiting for the next petrol station and a burning tea.
And the days became shorter and shorter : if I want to do 40 km between the sunrise and the sunset, I can't stop anywhere. But it's to cold to stop somewhere : there is nothing no stop the wind, no forest, no obstacle, and I don't want to be frozen stand up. The worst is in the morning : when I go out of my tent, make my bagpack, and go about 7h'( or 8h a.m. There, my inner temperature is not far of the "Miko Ice cream". Glagla...
And Istanbul is still so far...
The border
The weather is beautiful, air is cold, humor very good, so, everything is OK when I arrive to the control post of Kipi, the greek side of the border. Passeport please - yes - all right, you can go - adios.
I take my bag and go, but the agent stop me at the last time :
- You walk ?
- Yes. (very clever !)
- You can't pass by foot, it is not possible.
- Really ? why ?
- It is not possible, you have to take a bus, a taxi, or ask for a drive.
I repeat my question, but maybe his english is too limite, or maybe he thinks I'm stupid, but he give me the same answer.
Ok, ok. It's not the first time I hear "impossible", o I don't insist and go. it's always possible despite of they say...
I arrive to a bridge guarded by two soldiers :
And there, actually, it's impossible.
- But it's ridiculous, it's forbidden to walk, now ? There is a sidewalk !
- No, no, it's forbidden, ask for a drive.
I try again, but nothing to do. I am yet lucky that one guy speak english, I will not argue with them.
I come back to the greek border. There is not a lot of traffic, but it's contant and regular. The most of people stop in the duty free shop, so I can talk with them, but without success. And a lot of them don't speak english and don't understand me. A bus drive is OK to take me, but he don't want to stop before Istanbul and ask for 30 euros... he don't understand I just want to do 2 km until the turkish border.
So, 1h30 later, I'm still in the same place.
At the end, I ask to the customs officiers to drive me : of course, they refuse. But it will be usefull 10 minutes later. I have been spotted by an officier working in the visa office, and she (it was a girl) call me to ask me something I don't understand (I don't speak greek). But one of the customs officiers arrive and explian her my problem. She understand and, cleverer than her colleagues, she talks with some truck drivers waiting for their passports : 2 seconds after, she find me a transport !
I finally can cross this %+°e² bridge and go in Turkia (Thank you Mrs !)
Controle - passport - stamp, it's done.
In the meantime, I offer me my first Turkish tea ("çai") : very good.
Now, I just have to join Istanbul to close this part of my travel. Distance : 250 km.
It's 12 o'clock now, so I stop after one hour in a petrol station (Instead of developping a train web, turks have a lot of travel cars company and one of the consequences is a web of big petrol stations every 10 or 20 km with everything inside : shop, restaurant, cafeteria, wc, sometimes a hostel or a mosque, etc...) and decide to celebrate the crossing with a real lunch instead of my traditional sandwich. I choose at random a salad and a meat, and the waiter bring me a mix of green hot pepper and aubergine with with cheese. I come from Normandy : bring up with fresh cream and unsalted butter. But despite of my apprehension, it was very good, and pepper past correctly (i' iz ho', bu' 'ood!). Anyway, my stomac has no choice : it will be harder and harder until India, so, let's accustom now.
And I go. The geography is more or less the same, but there is no more one olive tree or cotton field to see : in fact, all the open country without exception is plowed and offer a naked ground to the look. The landscape is brown. with a blue sky and and a grey road.
The night fall, I find a place in a field. Like everytime, it's forbidden to camp rough in Turkia. And like everytime, I have no problem to do it...
I take my bag and go, but the agent stop me at the last time :
- You walk ?
- Yes. (very clever !)
- You can't pass by foot, it is not possible.
- Really ? why ?
- It is not possible, you have to take a bus, a taxi, or ask for a drive.
I repeat my question, but maybe his english is too limite, or maybe he thinks I'm stupid, but he give me the same answer.
Ok, ok. It's not the first time I hear "impossible", o I don't insist and go. it's always possible despite of they say...
I arrive to a bridge guarded by two soldiers :
And there, actually, it's impossible.
- But it's ridiculous, it's forbidden to walk, now ? There is a sidewalk !
- No, no, it's forbidden, ask for a drive.
I try again, but nothing to do. I am yet lucky that one guy speak english, I will not argue with them.
I come back to the greek border. There is not a lot of traffic, but it's contant and regular. The most of people stop in the duty free shop, so I can talk with them, but without success. And a lot of them don't speak english and don't understand me. A bus drive is OK to take me, but he don't want to stop before Istanbul and ask for 30 euros... he don't understand I just want to do 2 km until the turkish border.
So, 1h30 later, I'm still in the same place.
At the end, I ask to the customs officiers to drive me : of course, they refuse. But it will be usefull 10 minutes later. I have been spotted by an officier working in the visa office, and she (it was a girl) call me to ask me something I don't understand (I don't speak greek). But one of the customs officiers arrive and explian her my problem. She understand and, cleverer than her colleagues, she talks with some truck drivers waiting for their passports : 2 seconds after, she find me a transport !
I finally can cross this %+°e² bridge and go in Turkia (Thank you Mrs !)
Controle - passport - stamp, it's done.
In the meantime, I offer me my first Turkish tea ("çai") : very good.
Now, I just have to join Istanbul to close this part of my travel. Distance : 250 km.
It's 12 o'clock now, so I stop after one hour in a petrol station (Instead of developping a train web, turks have a lot of travel cars company and one of the consequences is a web of big petrol stations every 10 or 20 km with everything inside : shop, restaurant, cafeteria, wc, sometimes a hostel or a mosque, etc...) and decide to celebrate the crossing with a real lunch instead of my traditional sandwich. I choose at random a salad and a meat, and the waiter bring me a mix of green hot pepper and aubergine with with cheese. I come from Normandy : bring up with fresh cream and unsalted butter. But despite of my apprehension, it was very good, and pepper past correctly (i' iz ho', bu' 'ood!). Anyway, my stomac has no choice : it will be harder and harder until India, so, let's accustom now.
And I go. The geography is more or less the same, but there is no more one olive tree or cotton field to see : in fact, all the open country without exception is plowed and offer a naked ground to the look. The landscape is brown. with a blue sky and and a grey road.
The night fall, I find a place in a field. Like everytime, it's forbidden to camp rough in Turkia. And like everytime, I have no problem to do it...
Last days in Greece
End of Europe...
I had underrate the mileage : I thought I would arrived in Istanbul in the beginning of October, but it will be to the end.
I'm arrived this morning in Alexandropolis, last town before the turkish border, on the Egea sea coast.
The way was simple since Thessalonic : full East by Kavala, Xanthi, Komotini, and Alexandropolis, with just 3 days of walk between each city.
I thought to describe a bad landscape without interest, but at the end, it was better : for the main part, Macedonia and Thracia seem to be more populated than the south of Greece. More industrial too. Dumpy, with a big traffic, no beautifull landscape, and very polluted : the sun don't pass the fog before 10 o'clock a.m., and disapear about 17h p.m. with red colors as he was at the skyline... yuk yuk... After Kavala, I grew impatient to go out of there quickly.
But yesterday, I'm arrived in Maronia, in the south of Komotini. My map said there was a big archeological site, but in truth, there is nothing to see. But on the other hand, after, the road (in fact, I should speak about a trail, just for 4x4 and walkers) follow the mountains base falling in the sea just under, passing by olive fields in terrass, and wilder area full of flowered briards with purple and yellow colors... air was pur there, I was alone with birds, benefitting of the quiet... happy. Then, the road leave the mountain to find a riviera bording the coast on 15 km until Alexandropolis : beautiful isolated houses, nice cars (SLK200 for example), it smell the residential area for big annual KEuro. In consequence, no traffic, still quiet, still nice, and I was really in very good mood arriving in Alexandropolis.
All th more so as the weather play for me : cold in the morning (I keep my sweater until 10 a.m.), but the temperture grew up until 20 or 25 degrees in the afternoon, and there's almost a big sun. To walk in those conditions is easyer, and it's like this since about 15 days;
1 day, and I should join the border to leave Europe.
Rdv in Istanbul ! THe country of Lukums and Baklavas...
PS : my tent is all right !
Thessalonic
The sun came back 3 days ago. Not very hot (we are in october), so everything is OK. To walk is pleasant again, and I move forward normaly. I passed by Larissa (nothing to see, I passed my way), and I was in Pella yesterday. This is a little town without any interest in particulary, exept it was the Macedonian capital under Pillip II 's rule, Alexander's father. So, they 've digged the ground and found the old city foundations of the center, the agora, some houses, the palace, etc... So, it's possibl now to visit an archeological site and a museum, ... like everytim, in fact. To say the truth, there is not a lot of things to see on the site, but the museum is present a lot of wonders, fine golden or bronz items, some beautiful mosaics, so, it's really impressive. In particulary the golden crown of Pillip II... It's worth passing there. Today, I'm arrived in Thessalonic, the second bbigger city in Greece. Like in Athen, I have been obiged to walk about 20 km in a big industrial area... I won't complain myself (or just a little for the tradition) because this time I was happy to be there.
2 days ago, arriving on Pella I slept in a cotton field (Thessalia and Macedonia seems to be big prouctors of cotton), and in the morning, building back my tent, I break the second arch. Shit. Looking at th rest of the other pieces I notice 2 others cracks ready to fail... It's over, I think. I had a reparation on my first arch, but I'm not a wisard. Ok, too bad, let's get moving. So after Pella, I slept in a hostel. And this morning, arriving in the industrial area, I find a crummy workshop where 2 old men look at the time passing. I try my luck, and it's a deal : they have a iron tube in the ood size, and they accept to cut me 3 parts. I will test it when I will leave the city, but a-priori, it should be able to go until Istanbul. That's all I need.
2 days ago, arriving on Pella I slept in a cotton field (Thessalia and Macedonia seems to be big prouctors of cotton), and in the morning, building back my tent, I break the second arch. Shit. Looking at th rest of the other pieces I notice 2 others cracks ready to fail... It's over, I think. I had a reparation on my first arch, but I'm not a wisard. Ok, too bad, let's get moving. So after Pella, I slept in a hostel. And this morning, arriving in the industrial area, I find a crummy workshop where 2 old men look at the time passing. I try my luck, and it's a deal : they have a iron tube in the ood size, and they accept to cut me 3 parts. I will test it when I will leave the city, but a-priori, it should be able to go until Istanbul. That's all I need.
A morning...
A morning, near Lamia, at 7 o'clock...
Beautiful, no ? Perfect to start a new day after a bad night, when you need some encouragements...
The pictures
THere are the pictures. All right, everybody know them : they made the turn of the world and the story books, but it's still impressive to face them !
The ruins of Mycen and the Lions gate :
The Acropole of Athen, Parthenon, Dyonisos theatre.. In fact, its really big ! I thought it was littler, but in the place, it's incredible ! I was so enthusiastic that turists didn't disturbed me, who hate them usually...
I take this occasion to do my star, hop :
And the national museum of Athen, so famious. It's nice, it was one I really wanted to see in my life, with Londan one and New York one (I already know le Louvre and the Vienna one)
This is a sample :
And after Athen, I have gone up to Delphi. The rain made a little stop just for me when I arrived on the archeological site at the end of the day, just to let me visit quietly !
Me, I love. OK, in truth, sometimes, it's just a stone pile, and who is able to say what is it without the explaining bord is surely very clever. But it make me dream, the site is impressive, so, no regrets. However, it should be : 4 days of walk under the rain for 2 hours of visiting... And I just have to take the road again until the next destination... So bad. But it's the game.
So let's go. Direction Pella, in the north, and after Thessalonic and the turkish border.
The ruins of Mycen and the Lions gate :
The Acropole of Athen, Parthenon, Dyonisos theatre.. In fact, its really big ! I thought it was littler, but in the place, it's incredible ! I was so enthusiastic that turists didn't disturbed me, who hate them usually...
I take this occasion to do my star, hop :
And the national museum of Athen, so famious. It's nice, it was one I really wanted to see in my life, with Londan one and New York one (I already know le Louvre and the Vienna one)
This is a sample :
And after Athen, I have gone up to Delphi. The rain made a little stop just for me when I arrived on the archeological site at the end of the day, just to let me visit quietly !
Me, I love. OK, in truth, sometimes, it's just a stone pile, and who is able to say what is it without the explaining bord is surely very clever. But it make me dream, the site is impressive, so, no regrets. However, it should be : 4 days of walk under the rain for 2 hours of visiting... And I just have to take the road again until the next destination... So bad. But it's the game.
So let's go. Direction Pella, in the north, and after Thessalonic and the turkish border.
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