Croatia

I passed the Croatian border the last day of June, about 11H3O. As expected I don't need any Visa (French citizen) to enter. A simple passport is sufficient. But Slovenian people need one. I will lern later that both people are not realy friends. In truth, on the road going to the borer, I have seen a lot of vehicles from Slovenia Germany, Austria, Powland, etc, but no one from Croatia ! I hear Slovenia vote against the Croatia entry in Europe the last time.
Aftr the border, I stop a few hours in a bar to let pass the heat hours (it's impossible !), and spend the time talking with the Barman who's bored. He talk me about Opatja, a touristic city closed to Rijeka, on the coast. Rijeka, on the other hand, would have no one interest, and would be dangerous during the night, because of the albanian mafia. He give me the adress of a restaurant, and assure me it's possible to sleep everywhere in Croati without problems. I check the distance : I can be in Opatja for the diner if I go now. OK, anyway, I grew impatient to see the sea.
On the road, the change is important : they drive very faster than in Slovenia, and the country is not well holded : savage dumps, tags, mix of old and new houses, old and recent bus : the government seems to not have the financial means of the countries I have visite before. But things seem to change. This impression will be confirmed during the next days. I think Croatia is late, but it's changing quickly, notably thanks to the tourism.

ANd I arrive to Opatja at 7 p.m.. Actually, it's beautifull : a little town with a lot of stairs, back-alley, blacony and pergola, and thee is a lot of charm under the sunset. And full of tourist ! In truth, it's the "Azur Coast" of Croatia, and everything is 10 euros more expensive than in other places, confirme me a couple of french people I met on the front of the sea. And about the restaurnt the barman spoke me of, it's just the best and the more expensive...
So I find again my old good used and move away of the sea to find the nice little restaurant always hide in a tradition little back-alley. Won ! I find my happiness 1 km farest, ask for a Martini and a good diner to celebrate my arriving on the coast. Until there, everything is OK. But I 've come in the city in the evening, as I never used to do, and now, where will I sleep ? Usually, I sleep a few km before the city, and I am sure to have all the day to cross the urban area. But trusting the barman of this morning, I came in the city thinking it was possible to sleep on th beach or something like that... There is no beach. Just some rocks with sharp points. Weather is hot, and everybody is out until midnight. I can't sleep on a public bench, too much people. no public park to sleep under a tree. I try different places : too muh noise, too much wind, nothing good. At 1 a.m. , exceeded to let myself lock up in the town, I get my courage and my bag and start to walk. 5 km laters, I find a discret place , build my tent and sleep 3 hours. It's a bit hard when I wake up at 7 a.m.. And conditions are bad : I'm tired, weather is hot,, I have to cross a big town full of people, noise, cars, there is nothing interesting in Rijeka, and I hardly do 15 km. I stop every hours spending my Kunas (local money) in fresh drinks, coffees, etc...And I have no feeling to walk, today. To crown it all, I discover Rijeka is followed by Dockyards, Oil Refineries, petrol Terminal, Highway access... There is a monster traffic on the road !!! And nothing for walkers, of course.
Advantage : this situation, at the end, make me running away ahead, looking for the exit of this inconfortable situation ! I finaly do quickly the last 10 km until a little village I can see farest on the road. I have my diner there and sleep in the back country. After this day, It will be better. I have taken the mountains road, and then, the traffic going less important, I hve returned on the coast to tae advantage of the landscape. So everything is well. We are the 03rd of July 2008, I am in SENJ, between Rijeka and Zadar, and should arrive there in 4 days.